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News Flash! Hot Water Heater

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DHuse View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 8:38pm
Picked up a 179 HRE a few weeks ago. Couldn't find the water heater electric on/off switch near the black reset buttons as many posts here indicate. Was beginning to think maybe they stuck me with a one dimensional propane only water heater. Finally did what all men hate to do, I got the installation/operational manual out. My model is the SW6D and the switch is actually located in the lower left hand corner on the back of the water heater as you're lookin' at it. To make matters worse, they covered up the switch with a piece of white tape. WaLa! Removed the tape, flicked the switch and it actually worked.     Hot water without using propane. Hopefully this helps somebody else out there before they get too frustrated.    
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furpod View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote furpod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 10:13pm
What?

I bet you waited 15 minutes to save on car insurance..

(yeah that little switch can be a bugger to find, make sure you flip it off when you unhook, you don't want to forget and have it on with an empty water heater, takes moments to burn out the element)

Mark, Susie, Micah, and The Maggie.
'11 RP177(sold) '17 Lance 2295FurPodsMods
'17 Ford F250 CCSB
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DHuse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DHuse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 12:26am
I'm getting a bit confused, which at my age is understandable.  I keep reading that I have to make sure I have water in the heater before I heat with electricity or I will burn out the element.  I understand that.  What I'm not getting is how the water that is in the water heater goes away.  Unless I intentionally drain the water heater, as long as I have site water and/or water in my fresh tank, won't the heater always have water in it? Or am I oversimplifying it?


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furpod View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote furpod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 7:34am
When you winterize you will drain the WH. In the spring, there is a spate of RV owners who fill their system, or just plug in, and either don't set the bypass valves to summer, or don't hook up to water and purge the air first.. and *poof* they burn it out. There are also owners who, for whatever reason, drain the system before leaving a campground etc..

Of course, you may never winterize.. my father lives in the central valley and has never done it in 50 years. But you will also drain it when sanitizing the system.
Mark, Susie, Micah, and The Maggie.
'11 RP177(sold) '17 Lance 2295FurPodsMods
'17 Ford F250 CCSB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TopJimmy5150 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2014 at 4:43pm
Is there a photograph of the system in "summer" and "winter" modes?  I'm scared to death I have it wrong.
 
-Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kymooses Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2014 at 9:37pm
Originally posted by TopJimmy5150 TopJimmy5150 wrote:

Is there a photograph of the system in "summer" and "winter" modes?  I'm scared to death I have it wrong.
 
-Jay

put pics with notes on your thread Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CO_PILOT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2014 at 10:54am

 

Originally posted by DHuse DHuse wrote:

I'm getting a bit confused, which at my age is understandable.  I keep reading that I have to make sure I have water in the heater before I heat with electricity or I will burn out the element.  I understand that.  What I'm not getting is how the water that is in the water heater goes away.  Unless I intentionally drain the water heater, as long as I have site water and/or water in my fresh tank, won't the heater always have water in it? Or am I oversimplifying it?

Hot Water Tank will pretty much always have water in it.

During the winterization  of my 2014 RP-178  I pulled the sacrificial corrosion rod out of the hot water heater.  That drained out all the water in the hot water tank.  I drained the fresh water tank from underneath, then blew out the water lines with compressed air.  I used a cobbled-together hose/air fitting attached to the exterior fresh water input port.

I guess my winterization plan worked because so far there are no visible leaks after re-pressurizing (filling) the Pod with shore water a few weeks ago.

2014 R-Pod 178 -- 2012 Honda Pilot

Roadwise Wisdom for both Bikers and Froggers alike:
http://www.dansher.com/bikequotes.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rollinstone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2014 at 7:13pm
There is a pic of the "summer" "winter" modes of the bypass valves in the FAQ section here...scroll down a bit and you'll see it.

Rollinstone

2014 Draggin'Pod 178

'97 Explorer 5.0L AWD

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Camper Bob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Camper Bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2014 at 8:50am
We recently had a problem with hot water heater not operating on electricity. Finally had it diagnosed at Camping World as a defective high water temp switch. Was replaced under two year warranty from Suburban. I too also used the switch outside in the heater to control it. It was recommended to me by the tech. to leave the switch in the on position and use the breaker inside to control the heater. Less wear and tear on the outside switch. Safe Travels.
Camper Bob and Camper Sue
Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 lb.) Mini Dachshund
2013 Rpod 171HRE (Pods-of-Luck)
2005 Chev. Tahoe
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